How To Replace A Toilet Shut-Off Valve?

Last Updated on October 8, 2022 by acechapman

The wall behind the toilet houses a shut-off valve for the toilet. This valve allows you to turn off the water supply to your toilet in the event that you have to perform repairs or maintenance. We’ll show you how to replace a leaking shut-off valve on a toilet. This is a simple task that you can complete in less than an hour, depending on your level of experience.

The shutoff valve is connected to the water supply line. It is a good idea to as soon as the shutoff valve is replaced, to change the water supply line.

It is easy to set up a supply line and it will save you time in replacing it.

The toilet shut-off valves get stuck because they are seldom used. You may find that the toilet shut-off valves start to leak when you force them to close.

A rubber washer seals the shutoff valve as well as prevents leaks. However, the rubber washer will deteriorate over time and cause shut-off valve leaks. As the tank fills, you might hear a vibrating sound.

The rubber washer moves around the valve while the water flows out, causing vibration. The vibration will stop once the tank is full.

While it is possible to repair the shutoff washer, replacing the whole valve is a better and longer-lasting option.

SHUT-OFF VALVE TYPES

Before you replace a toilet shut-off valve, you need to identify the type of shut-off valve that you have.

There are three types of valves.

Compression Valve

This valve is not threaded or soldered to the pipe. This valve uses a brass compression ring that is deformed with a nut to tighten it. This is the type of valve that you should be using.

Threaded Valve

This valve is threaded directly into the pipe. While compression valves can be used on copper pipes, threaded valves can be used for iron pipes.

Sweat Valve

Normally, sweat valves are soldered to the pipe. The valves have a slightly larger diameter than the pipe and are filled with hot solder, which sticks to it. A soldering torch is required to replace a sweat shut-off valve. You also need a fire extinguisher. You should call a plumber if you feel uncomfortable replacing this type of shut-off valve.

HOW TO REPLACE A LEAKING TOILET SHUT-OFF VALVE

Depending on which type of valve you’re replacing, the first thing to do is gather all the necessary tools and materials. These are the essential items:

• 2 Adjustable wrenches
• Sponge
• Soldering torch
• Protect your flames
• Fire extinguisher
• Leather groves
• Emery cloth
• Penetrating oil

PURCHASE THE RIGHT VALVE

It’s great that shutoff valves can be used in any size, so there is no need to worry about their dimensions. This is the type that you should be focusing on.

You will need a 1/4-turn ball valve to close the valve. It is simple to install, doesn’t jam/lock, and does not leak. Consider replacing your sweat valve with a compression one.

You will need a threaded valve if your pipe is threaded.

DRAIN THE TANK WATER 

• Turn off the main house shutoff valve. This valve will be located in the basement near the heater or next to the water meter. If it’s a wheel valve, turn it in clockwise. If it’s a butterfly valve, turn it 90° (perpendicular to the pipe).
• To drain any water in the pipes, turn on any faucet in your house.
• To remove as much water from the toilet as possible, flush it and then hold the handle to drain as much water as you can.
• Then, take off the lid from the toilet tank and store it in a secure place.
• The sponge can be used to absorb any water remaining in the tank.

DISCONNECT THE SUPPLY-LINE

• A plastic coupling connects the supply line to the tank. You can loosen the coupling by using your hand, as it is usually tightened by hand. If the coupling is too tight, only use a wrench. To catch any water that may drip onto the floor, place a towel or small bucket on the ground.
• To disconnect the supply from the shutoff valve, use a wrench by turning the connecting nuts counterclockwise.

HOW TO REMOVE AND REPLACE A COMPRESSION SHUTOFF VALVE

• This is where you need to turn the compression nuts, not the valve. Use a wrench to remove the valve. Then, turn the nut clockwise with the second wrench. Take out the valve.
• You will find the compression ring and nut still on the pipe. Grab the ring with a wrench or pliers and remove it from the pipe. You should not exert too much force as it can cause the pipe to become oval or deformed.
• To remove the ring that is too tight around the pipe, you can use a hacksaw. You can also remove the nut by removing it.
• Place the new compression nut/ring in the pipe. Position the new ring away from any dents left by the old ring.
• Slide the valve into the pipe. Now, compress the ring of the valve with the wrench. Tighten the nut until it is snug. You can now use a wrench to tighten the valve. Next, you can turn the nut counterclockwise to tighten it. To connect the supply line, ensure that the valve faces upwards.

HOW TO REMOVE AND REPLACE A THREADED VALVE

• This valve threads straight on the pipe. You can leave ugly marks on the pipe because there is no nut. Also, you want to turn only the valve and not your pipe.
• Wrap an emery cloth around the pipe. Then, tighten the wrench. The emery cloth will not only prevent wrench marks but also give you a firm grip. You can use a rag, duct tape, or an emery cloth if you don’t own one.
• To support the pipe, loosen the wrench by lowering its handle to the ground. Turn the valve counterclockwise until the handle is free.
• Spray some penetrating oils on the valve if it is tight. Leave it alone for 15 minutes.
• Clean the threads of the pipe and apply Teflon tape.
• Tighten the valve by hand until it is snug. It should be perfectly aligned. Do not force it in if it isn’t aligned. Otherwise, you could damage the threads.
• To tighten it, use the 2 wrenches.

REPLACING AND REMOVING A SWEAT VALVE

• You should always have a fire extinguisher at your side. Also, remove any material that could catch fire.
• Place the flame protector around the pipe. It is important not to alter the wall’s finishing.
• The valve stem can be removed. Use one wrench to remove the valve stem. The other wrench will be used to loosen the packing nuts. This will allow you to drain all of the water from the pipe, which will make your job easier.
• Use pliers to hold the valve in place or adjust it and rock it.
• Place the torch on the smallest flame, and aim it directly at the valve’s body. The solder will begin to melt.
• Turn the valve with the pliers/wrench until it is free of the pipe.
• The pipe will still have some solder. You can also melt it with a torch. Put on your leather gloves and wipe the solder off with a dump cotton cloth.
• To remove any traces of solder, use emery cloth. This is necessary if you wish to replace the valve with a compression valve.
• As shown above, install the new compression valve.

CONNECT THE WATER SUPPLY LINE

• Attach the water supply line’s nuts to the valve. Tighten the knob by hand until it is snug. To tighten the valve further, use the wrench. However, do not tighten it too much to strip the threads.
• Connect the supply line to the tank. This connection should be tightened by hand only. It could be bent by using a wrench.

OPEN THE MAIN WATER SUPPLY

• Open the main house shutoff valve.
• Turn on one faucet, and let it run until the water is clear. This will be evident when the bubbling stops.
• Turn on the shutoff valve for the toilet and allow the tank to fill up with water.
• You should inspect the valve carefully for any leaks.
• If you notice any leaks, tighten the valve slightly. Otherwise, enjoy your new valve.

Wrapping up

This is how to replace the toilet shut-off valve. It can be difficult to replace the sweat shutoff valve for some people, but it is easy to replace the compression and threaded shutoff valves.

Most DIYers can replace a leaking toilet valve in just a few hours. These simple steps will ensure your toilet valve replacement goes smoothly. This will eliminate the leakage and allow you to put your toilet back into working properly.

This is a project that DIYers can manage, but don’t eat too much. Do-it-yourself DIY disasters are possible by trying to deal with old, corroded-iron plumbing. While you can do the copper and PVC repairs yourself, a plumber is needed for the older stuff.

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